Pool Service Checklists Your Techs Can Use Today

The standard service checklist for every weekly stop — the bread and butter of your business.

• Check the pool area before touching anything. Note any visible issues: water level low, debris buildup, discoloration, algae spots, anything the customer might have mentioned. If something looks seriously wrong, photograph it and call the office before proceeding.
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• Skim the surface with a leaf net. Remove all floating debris, leaves, insects, and anything on the surface. Then vacuum the bottom if debris has settled — don't just skim and leave sediment sitting.
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• Empty the skimmer baskets and pump strainer basket. Check for cracks in the baskets while they're out. A cracked basket lets debris into the pump impeller.
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• Brush the walls, steps, and any ledges. Focus on areas with poor circulation — corners, behind ladders, around returns. Brushing prevents algae from establishing itself even when chemicals are right.
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• Test the water: pH, free chlorine, total alkalinity at minimum. Use a fresh reagent kit — expired reagents give false readings. Record all results in the service log.
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• Add chemicals based on test results, not habit. Dose according to pool volume and current readings. Add chemicals to different areas of the pool, not all in one spot. If pH and chlorine both need adjustment, correct pH first — chlorine effectiveness depends on proper pH.
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• Check the filter pressure gauge. If pressure is 8-10 PSI above the clean baseline, note that a backwash or filter clean is needed. Don't wait for the customer to notice poor circulation.
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• Inspect visible equipment: pump running smoothly, no unusual noises, no leaks at unions or valves, timer set correctly. Check the water level and adjust if needed — too low and the pump runs dry, too high and the skimmer can't work.
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• Log the visit: date, chemical readings, chemicals added, any issues noted, and any recommendations for the customer. Leave the service area cleaner than you found it.
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The detailed testing procedure that keeps water balanced and avoids overcorrection.

• Collect the water sample from elbow-depth, away from return jets. A surface sample doesn't represent the pool. Hold the collection bottle upside down, submerge it, then flip it to fill.
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• Test free chlorine first. Target range: 2-4 ppm for residential, 3-5 ppm for commercial. If free chlorine is low and combined chlorine is high, the pool needs a shock treatment, not just more chlorine.
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• Test pH. Target range: 7.4-7.6. If pH is above 7.6, add muriatic acid. If below 7.2, add soda ash. Always pre-dilute acid in a bucket of pool water before adding — never pour concentrated acid directly into the pool.
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• Test total alkalinity. Target range: 80-120 ppm. Alkalinity acts as a pH buffer — if alkalinity is correct, pH stays stable between visits. Adjust alkalinity before chasing pH fluctuations.
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• Check cyanuric acid (stabilizer) monthly. Target: 30-50 ppm for residential. Too low and chlorine burns off in sunlight within hours. Too high and chlorine becomes ineffective even at high readings. The only fix for high CYA is partial drain and refill.
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• Calculate chemical doses based on the pool's actual volume. Don't guess — use the dosing charts or app. Adding too much chemical is worse than too little. You can always add more next visit; you can't take it back.
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• Wait to add chemicals until after brushing and cleaning — disturbed sediment can affect readings. Broadcast granular chemicals over the deep end with the pump running. Liquid chemicals can be poured near a return jet for distribution.
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The spring opening checklist that gets pools from winterized to swim-ready.

• Remove the pool cover carefully. Pump off standing water first, then remove the cover. Clean the cover, let it dry completely, fold and store it properly. A moldy cover stored wet is a cover you'll replace next year.
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• Inspect the pool interior. Note any staining, cracks, or damage that occurred over winter. Photograph and document for the customer before filling.
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• Reinstall all equipment removed for winterization: ladders, handrails, skimmer baskets, return fittings, and any plugs removed from return lines.
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• Fill the pool to proper operating level — middle of the skimmer opening. While filling, reinstall the pump, filter, and heater drain plugs that were removed for freeze protection.
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• Prime the pump and start the system. Check for leaks at all unions, valves, and equipment connections. Verify the pump is priming and maintaining pressure. Let the system run for a full cycle before testing water.
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• Test water chemistry comprehensively: pH, chlorine, alkalinity, calcium hardness, CYA, and metals. Spring startup water is usually way off — it often needs heavy treatment.
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• Shock the pool with an initial dose of chlorine. Brush the entire pool. Run the pump 24 hours for the first few days. Schedule a follow-up visit in 2-3 days to retest and fine-tune.
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The winterization checklist that protects the pool and equipment through the off-season.

• Balance the water chemistry one final time. Slightly higher alkalinity (100-120 ppm) helps protect the pool surface over winter. Add a winter algaecide per product instructions.
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• Clean the pool thoroughly — vacuum, brush walls and floor, skim surface. Any debris left in the pool will decompose and cause staining over winter.
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• Lower the water level below the skimmer and return fittings — typically 4-6 inches below, depending on the cover type and local freeze depth.
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• Blow out all plumbing lines with a shop vac or air compressor. Water left in pipes freezes and cracks them — this is the most common and most expensive winterization mistake. Plug return lines with winterizing plugs after blowing out.
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• Drain all equipment: pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, and any auxiliary equipment. Remove drain plugs and store them in the pump basket so they're easy to find in spring.
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• Add pool antifreeze to the skimmer line and any plumbing that couldn't be fully blown out. Use pool-rated antifreeze only — automotive antifreeze is toxic.
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• Install the pool cover securely. For safety covers, check all anchors and springs. For solid covers, ensure the water bag or clip system is secure. Take a photo of the closed pool for your records.
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